Ring of Kerry Driving Guide — The Complete Route (2026)

I grew up in County Kerry and have driven the Ring more times than I can count — with family, with friends, and alone at dawn when the mist is still sitting on Dingle Bay and you feel like you have the whole peninsula to yourself. It never gets old.

The Ring of Kerry is a circular route around the Iveragh Peninsula in County Kerry, southwest Ireland. It’s one of Ireland’s most famous tourist drives — and justifiably so. But knowing when to go, which direction to take, and where to stop makes the difference between a genuinely magical day and a traffic-filled crawl behind tour coaches.

What Is the Ring of Kerry?

The Ring of Kerry is a 179km (111 mile) circular driving route starting and finishing in Killarney. It loops around the Iveragh Peninsula — the largest of Kerry’s five peninsulas — passing through the towns of Killorglin, Cahersiveen, Waterville, Kenmare, and a string of smaller villages along the way.

The scenery shifts constantly. You move from the lush lakes and mountains around Killarney to dramatic Atlantic coastline, then through remote bog land and mountain passes, before dropping back down through the wooded valleys around Kenmare. It’s genuinely diverse — every bend in the road looks different.

Which Direction Should You Drive?

The Ring of Kerry can be driven in either direction, but there is a strong conventional wisdom — and a practical reason — to drive it anticlockwise (starting from Killarney towards Killorglin).

The reason is simple: tour coaches are legally required to drive the Ring clockwise, to reduce the risk of large vehicles meeting on the narrow roads. If you drive anticlockwise, you’re going against the coaches rather than behind them. You’ll still encounter them on bends, but you won’t spend the day stuck in a convoy.

The anticlockwise route also means you’re driving with the coastline on your left — the passenger side — for much of the route. This is better for drivers, who can keep their eyes on the road while passengers enjoy the views. The light is also generally better in the afternoon on this side of the peninsula.

The Full Route — Stop by Stop

Starting from Killarney and driving anticlockwise, here is the full route with distances and key stops.

Killarney → Killorglin (21km)

Leave Killarney heading northwest on the N72. The road follows the northern shore of Lough Leane — on a clear morning the views across the lake to the McGillycuddy Reeks mountains are extraordinary. Killorglin is a pleasant market town, home to the famous Puck Fair (August) where a wild mountain goat is crowned king of the town for three days. Worth a quick stop for coffee before the main drive begins.

Killorglin → Cahersiveen (53km)

This is where the Ring really opens up. The road climbs through Drung Hill and Macgillycuddy’s Reeks come into view — Ireland’s highest mountain range, with Carrauntoohil (1,041m) dominating the skyline on clear days. The road then drops to the coast near Glenbeigh, where Rossbeigh Beach is a wild 5km sand spit worth a short detour. Continue south through Kells Bay — one of Kerry’s most beautiful sheltered beaches — before reaching Cahersiveen, the largest town on the Ring.

Cahersiveen → Waterville (28km)

Stop at Cahersiveen for the ruins of Ballycarbery Castle and the early Christian stone fort of Cahergal — both are signposted and free to visit. The road from Cahersiveen to Waterville hugs the coast along the Kenmare River estuary. Waterville itself is a charming seaside town with a famous Charlie Chaplin connection — he holidayed here for decades and there’s a statue on the seafront. The beach at Waterville is beautiful and the town has excellent seafood restaurants.

Waterville → Caherdaniel (19km)

This stretch is arguably the most dramatic of the entire Ring. The road climbs to the Coomakista Pass — pull over at the viewpoint and you’ll see the Skellig Islands clearly on most days, rising from the Atlantic like jagged teeth. The Skelligs are one of Ireland’s most extraordinary places — a UNESCO World Heritage Site and filming location for Star Wars — and seeing them from the mainland gives you a sense of just how remote they are.

Derrynane Beach near Caherdaniel is one of the finest beaches in Kerry — sheltered, with turquoise water on sunny days and the ruins of Derrynane Abbey at the edge of the sand.

Caherdaniel → Kenmare (48km)

After Caherdaniel the road climbs again through the Coomakista and Moll’s Gap passes. The mountain scenery here is raw and spectacular — bogland, rocky outcrops, and on clear days views stretching to the Beara Peninsula. Moll’s Gap is worth a brief stop for the views and a coffee at the café there. The descent into Kenmare is beautiful, dropping through wooded valleys to the town at the head of the Kenmare River.

Kenmare is one of Kerry’s most attractive towns — a proper Georgian planned town with excellent restaurants, craft shops, and a lovely stone circle just outside town. It’s a great place for lunch if you’ve timed your drive right.

Kenmare → Killarney (34km)

The final leg follows the N71 back to Killarney through the Ladies View — a famous viewpoint over the Upper Lake and the Black Valley. On a clear day this is one of the finest views in Ireland. The road passes through the Killarney National Park — look out for red deer, which are genuinely wild and commonly seen near the road in the evening.

The Unmissable Stops

If you’re pressed for time, these are the stops you absolutely cannot skip:

Where to Stay on the Ring of Kerry

Most visitors base themselves in Killarney and do the Ring as a day trip, which works perfectly well. But staying overnight at one of the towns along the route gives you a completely different experience — quieter evenings after the day-trippers have left, better access to the morning light, and more time at each stop.

Killarney — Best Base for the Ring

Killarney is the most practical base — good range of hotels, restaurants, and facilities, and you start and finish the Ring right here. It can feel touristy in peak summer but the town has genuine character outside the main drag. Compare hotels and B&Bs in Killarney for your dates.

Kenmare — The Most Charming Overnight Stop

If you want to break the Ring into two days, Kenmare is the ideal overnight stop. It’s a genuinely beautiful town with excellent restaurants and a calmer atmosphere than Killarney. Stay the night, explore the town in the evening, and drive the second half of the Ring fresh the next morning.

Waterville — The Quietest Option

Waterville is quieter than both Killarney and Kenmare — a proper small Kerry seaside town that empties out in the evening. Great for those wanting to escape the tourist trail. The Butler Arms Hotel is a Kerry institution and worth a stay if the budget allows.

Essential Tips Before You Go

Allow a Full Day

The Ring of Kerry takes a minimum of 6 hours to drive without stops. With proper stops at the best viewpoints, a beach visit, and lunch in Kenmare, a full day — 8–10 hours — is ideal. Don’t try to rush it.

The Roads Are Narrow

Kerry roads are notorious for their narrowness, particularly on the coastal sections. Hedgerows press in from both sides on many stretches. Drive slowly, use passing places when you meet oncoming traffic, and don’t let impatient drivers behind you rush you. Scratches on rental cars are expensive.

Weather Changes Fast

Kerry weather is famously unpredictable. A morning of sunshine can turn to heavy rain by afternoon and back again within an hour. Pack a waterproof layer regardless of the forecast. The light after rain is often spectacular — low cloud lifting off the mountains is one of Kerry’s great sights.

Fill Up on Fuel Before You Leave Killarney

Petrol stations are sparse along parts of the Ring, particularly between Cahersiveen and Waterville. Fill up in Killarney or Killorglin before starting and you won’t have to worry.

Book Your Rental Car in Advance

Kerry in summer has limited car hire availability. Book your rental car well in advance — last-minute bookings in July and August can be twice the price of advance bookings, and automatics in particular sell out very fast.

Frequently Asked Questions